Come here to do very little: float along the canals, watch village life and eat well. It works best for couples and families. If you're alone, a houseboat costs more per head, and if you need things to do, skip it. You only need one night, and it fits neatly between Kochi and the south.
When to go
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Go in the coloured months. The black ones are best avoided.
What to do
A night on a houseboat
Stay on a wooden boat with bedrooms, a cook and a driver, drifting through the canals. One source says hires run from 12 hours to several days. Book a reputable operator, not someone who approaches you in the street.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Beach and town walk
Stick to walking on the sand. One source says the beach is wide, but the water is deep with strong currents. The town is an easy place for a slow stroll and a meal.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Mararikulam
About 16 km north of Alleppey, a quieter, less visited stretch of coast. Base yourself here if you want fewer other visitors.
What to eat
Kuttanad, the rice country around Alleppey, eats from the canals: pearl spot fish, prawns and duck. Skip the multi-cuisine places on the main road and find a toddy shop, a rural place that serves palm wine with very spicy food.
Chemmeen ularthiyathu
Prawns tossed in coconut oil with shallots and curry leaves until crisp at the edges. A great side.
Duck mappas
Duck in a coconut gravy, a toddy shop favourite around the backwaters. Eat it with appam, a soft rice pancake.
Kappa and meen curry
Boiled, mashed tapioca with a hot, tangy fish curry. Rural and filling, and the classic toddy shop plate.
Karimeen pollichathu
Pearl spot fish baked in a spiced banana leaf parcel. This is its home water, so order it here if anywhere.
Pazham pori
Ripe banana fritters, crisp outside and soft within, eaten with chai in the evening.
Vegetarian
Where to go
Cassia RestaurantAlleppey town
Karimeen pollichathu in a cosy room.
Mid-range
Chungath ToddyOn the backwaters
Toddy, spicy tapioca and fish curry in a rustic shop. Ask your host.
Cheap eats
Indian Coffee HouseMullackal Road
Filter coffee and masala dosa at a dependable chain.
Cheap eats
Thaff RestaurantAlleppey town
Plain, homely fish curry meals and biryani with locals.
From Kochi, take the bus, about 1 hour 45 minutes. A Vande Bharat (a fast modern chair-car train) from Thiruvananthapuram towards Kochi stops here in the early evening, though not on Wednesdays. Check times when you book.
Where to stay
Alleppey town Simple guesthouses near the canals, for a cheaper night on land. You miss the night on the water.
Mararikulam A quieter coastal base about 16 km north of the town, for when you want fewer people around.
On a houseboat The classic way to stay, and the reason you're here. Prices run from mid-range to luxury.
Worth knowing
Safety
Do not swim at Alleppey Beach, and keep to walking on the sand. One source warns of deep water and strong currents, especially around the monsoon.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Rules
Many Hindu temples in Kerala do not admit non-Hindus, and a state rule is described as a blanket bar. In January 2026 the Kerala High Court asked the state to reconsider that rule but did not strike it down. Plan to see temples from outside only. Do not plan to go inside the Guruvayur or Padmanabhaswamy temples, which are the best known. Whether you are turned away is the temple's decision, and we do not suggest any declaration of faith to get in.
Safety
Book through a reputable operator, not someone who approaches you in the street, as one source advises. We couldn't confirm how licences are checked, so ask for details before you pay.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Houseboat near Nedumudy / Kerala. Ingo Mehling, CC BY-SA 4.0
Kerala Backwaters - Canal near Chamabakulam. Ingo Mehling, CC BY-SA 4.0
Kerala Backwaters near Nedumudy. Ingo Mehling, CC BY-SA 4.0
Kerala Backwaters near Nedumudy. Ingo Mehling, CC BY-SA 4.0
Kerala Backwaters near Nedumudy. Ingo Mehling, CC BY-SA 4.0
The Kerala backwaters are a network of lagoons, lakes, interconnected canals and rivers, lying parallel to the Arabian Sea coast of Kerala i. Vyacheslav Argenberg, CC BY 4.0
Houseboat on Punnamada Backwaters -Kerala. Varghesepunnamada, CC BY 4.0
The Kerala backwaters are a network of lagoons, lakes, interconnected canals and rivers, lying parallel to the Arabian Sea coast of Kerala i. Vyacheslav Argenberg, CC BY 4.0
Sunset at the pristinely beautiful Marari beach. Mahendra M, CC BY-SA 3.0