Boating on the Umngot
Boat rides on the Umngot are why you're here. Clear water depends on rain, water level, silt and crowds, so it's likely in the dry season, not promised. Agree the price before you board.
Dawki is a short river stop right on the Bangladesh border, and you come for the boats that seem to float over the clear Umngot river. Do it as a long day trip from Shillong, or two days with a night at a riverside camp. The road has had landslides and repairs, so start early and travel only in daylight. If your plans can't flex, skip it.
Go in the coloured months. The black ones are best avoided.
Boat rides on the Umngot are why you're here. Clear water depends on rain, water level, silt and crowds, so it's likely in the dry season, not promised. Agree the price before you board.
Shnongpdeng, a village about 8 km past Dawki, has riverside camps and is the usual place to sleep. Book through an operator you've confirmed.
One source says you can hire kayaks at Shnongpdeng.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Food here is what the camp or a roadside shop cooks, rice with dal, egg, smoked pork or river fish. We can't confirm any restaurant by name, so eat at your camp, or at the small places in town. If you are vegetarian, ask first or carry snacks.
Rice cooked with pork, the Khasi plate. A quick riverside meal from a small shop, often the only thing on.
Local fish with rice, cooked simply. Whether there's any depends on the day, so ask your camp in the morning.
Smoked pork, sometimes with bamboo shoot. A camp dinner at Shnongpdeng if your host makes it.







Dawki is about 80 to 82 km from Shillong on NH 206, normally 2.5 to 3 hours. A landslide collapsed part of the road in June 2026; Laitlyngkot to Lyngkyrdem reopened on 10 August, with vehicles barred 22:00 to 05:00. We couldn't confirm the road after August, so ask your hotel or call the state helpline, 1800 599 2026, before you go.
Shnongpdeng A riverside village about 8 km past Dawki, for a night at a camp. Pre-book, because camps are what there is.
Carry your passport, follow police and security staff, ask locally if it's safe, and keep off the border line. The UK reports skirmishes here, and we found no published rule on foreigners there.
Come roughly October to April for boating. Meghalaya bars swimming and most water activities in most areas in the monsoon, May to September, and clear water is likely in the dry season, not promised.
Go in daylight and check first with your hotel or helpline, 1800 599 2026. Vehicles are barred 22:00 to 05:00 after a June 2026 landslide, widening continues, and we can't confirm it since August.
Don't stop under cliffs or travel during or just after heavy rain. One local news report counts at least ten deaths here since 2023, two from loose boulders on 20 April 2026.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
The UK government warns of sudden flare-ups on inter-state borders including Assam and Meghalaya, skirmishes on the India-Bangladesh border, and protests and blockades that can disrupt highways. Check with local people before travelling near a border. The US lists the Northeastern States at Level 3, reconsider travel, and we could not confirm whether that includes Meghalaya.
No Protected Area Permit is listed for Meghalaya under India's 2025 Order. Keep your passport with you; Dawki sits on the Bangladesh border, so follow local security instructions. If in doubt, the state tourism helpline is 1800 599 2026.


