Red Fort and Old Delhi
Start at the Red Fort, a Mughal fort open 9:30 am to 4:30 pm and closed on Mondays. Jama Masjid, a large mosque, is a short walk away, and Chandni Chowk, an old market street, is close by.
2 to 3 daysHow long to stay
Budget to luxuryRough cost
FamiliesWho it suits
DelhiNorth India
Is this for you?
Most people land in Delhi, and it suits you if you like big cities and history more than quiet. You get old Mughal monuments (the Mughals were the Muslim dynasty that ruled much of northern India for centuries), a Sufi shrine with evening singing, and nights out in neighbouring Gurugram. It's loud and crowded, so skip it if you need calm. The air is poor from late autumn to winter, so aim for mid-October to mid-November or mid-February to March.
When to go
- Jan
- Feb
- Mar
- Apr
- May
- Jun
- Jul
- Aug
- Sep
- Oct
- Nov
- Dec
Go in the coloured months. The black ones are best avoided.
What to do
Jama Masjid
You can't go in during prayers, and Friday around midday is the longest closure. Official pages differ on hours and fees, so check at the gate and dress modestly.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Humayun's Tomb and Qutub Minar
Humayun's Tomb is a Mughal garden tomb and Qutub Minar a tall medieval stone tower. Official sources disagree on hours and fees at both, so check on the day.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Nizamuddin Dargah
A dargah is a Sufi saint's shrine (Sufism is Islam's mystical tradition). One source says entry is free, as is Thursday evening qawwali, devotional singing. Cover your head, remove shoes, ask which areas are open.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Lotus Temple and Akshardham
The Lotus Temple is a Bahai house of worship and Akshardham a large Hindu temple complex. One tour operator reports both close on Mondays, so plan another day.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
A night out in Gurugram
The business city next to Delhi is where you go for bars. The legal age to buy alcohol in Haryana, where it sits, is 21. Closing times are unclear, so ask the venue, and take your passport because bars check age.
What to eat
Delhi is one of the great food cities in India, and you should plan your days around it. Eat Mughal-era meat dishes around Jama Masjid, Punjabi classics across the city, and save one big dinner for a table people book weeks ahead.
Butter chicken
Tandoor chicken in a rich tomato and butter sauce, a dish Delhi claims as its own. Have it in Daryaganj, where the story starts.
Chole bhature
Spiced chickpeas with puffy fried bread, Delhi's big breakfast. It's heavy, so don't plan a long walk straight after.
Vegetarian
Daulat ki chaat
Winter-only milk foam, airy and sweet, sold in Old Delhi from street carts. If it's cold and you see it, stop.
Vegetarian
Nihari
Slow-cooked meat stew, eaten at breakfast or lunch around Jama Masjid in Old Delhi. Go hungry and go early.
Paratha
Stuffed flatbread fried on a griddle. Paranthe Wali Gali, a lane in Chandni Chowk, has turned it into a street of its own.
Vegetarian
Seekh kebab
Spiced minced meat grilled on skewers. The lanes behind Jama Masjid are the place, and lunch is calmer than dinner.
Where to go
BukharaITC Maurya, Chanakyapuri
Dal Bukhara and tandoor meats, eaten with your hands. Expect a queue.
A treatIndian AccentThe Lodhi, New Delhi
Modern Indian tasting menus for your one big night out.
A treatKarim'sNear Jama Masjid, Old Delhi
Seekh kebabs at the 1913 original. Skip the wait at dinner and go for lunch.
Cheap eatsMoti MahalDaryaganj
Butter chicken at the place that claims to have started it all.
Mid-rangeSita Ram Diwan ChandPaharganj
Chole bhature, chickpeas with fried bread, for a morning you don't need to move much.
Cheap eats, vegetarian
Getting there
Fly into Indira Gandhi International (DEL). The Airport Express metro reaches New Delhi station in about 15 to 20 minutes. A taxi to Connaught Place, the central district, is 19.9 km: about 20 minutes on quiet roads, up to 90 at busy times. For Agra, 1 hour 40 minutes by morning train, check your ticket: it may say New Delhi or Hazrat Nizamuddin.
Where to stay
Connaught Place The easiest base for a first trip, right in the centre. You pay a premium for it.
Paharganj Budget and right by New Delhi station. Guides disagree on whether late-night noise and touts make it a good choice.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
South Delhi One source says Hauz Khas, Greater Kailash and Defence Colony are quieter and mostly mid-range, if you'd prefer that.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Worth knowing
Safety
Late autumn to winter, plan indoor stops and wear a good mask: December 2025 averaged an AQI (air score, higher is worse) of 351. Fog is the norm 10 December to 10 February, so leave slack.
Safety
Avoid isolated places at any time and pre-book transport for late arrivals. The UK and Canada warn women of sexual assault and frequent harassment; Canada singles out Delhi and public transport.
Rules
Carry your passport or a photocopy, as Delhi bars have been told to check hard-copy proof of age. The legal age to buy alcohol is 25 in Delhi and 21 in Haryana, which includes Gurugram.
1 more to know
Opening
Don't plan the Red Fort on a Monday, when it's closed. The Lotus Temple and Akshardham are also reported closed on Mondays.
