Hampi holds the ruins of a lost empire called Vijayanagara, spread across a landscape of huge boulders. It feels more like walking through a lost city than visiting a museum. Come if you like history and walking, and go between November and February. It's hot from April to June, so skip it then, and skip it altogether if you don't want to be on your feet.
Go in the coloured months. The black ones are best avoided.
Start at the Virupaksha temple and walk the bazaar area, where one source says budget guesthouses cluster. Dress modestly and ask at the gate about entry rules.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
One of the main stops. Sources disagree on opening hours and on the foreigner ticket, about ₹500 to ₹600, so confirm at the ticket counter.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
One source sends you here on your second day: the royal area of the Zenana Enclosure, Lotus Mahal, Elephant Stables and Queen's Bath.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
The quieter north side of the river, by Bukkasagara bridge or coracle, a round basket-shaped boat. Coracle prices conflict, about ₹250 to ₹800, with no official list, so agree first and wear the life jacket.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Food isn't why you're here. Guides say meat and alcohol aren't sold around Hampi Bazaar, a temple area, so expect vegetarian meals. Places across the river have faced demolition orders, so ask locally what's open.
A crisp rice pancake and soft steamed rice cakes, sold along the main bazaar street. Have them early, with chai.
Vegetarian
Sorghum flatbread with stuffed aubergine curry, the North Karnataka meal. Look for it in nearby towns rather than the bazaar.
Vegetarian
Rice, sambar (a lentil and vegetable stew) and small curries on a plate. The dependable lunch around the bazaar.
Vegetarian
North Indian food with fish and chicken, if you want meat.
Mid-range
Take the train to Hosapete (also written Hospet), 13 km away, then a bus or auto-rickshaw. From Goa, 18048 leaves Vasco da Gama at 06:30 on Sunday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday and arrives at 14:28. From Bengaluru, the daily Hampi Express 16592 leaves at 21:50 and arrives at 07:00. Vidyanagar airport, 35 to 40 km away, has limited flights.
Anegundi One guide lists rustic homestays across the river, for when you want the quiet side. The catch is the coracle or bridge crossing.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Hampi Bazaar One guide lists budget guesthouses here, close to the Virupaksha temple, so it suits you if you want the temple on your doorstep.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Kamalapura One guide says these mid-range stays suit families. Hosapete, about 30 minutes away by rickshaw, has comfortable hotels.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
From March to June, start at dawn, carry water and rest through the afternoon. Temperatures can reach about 40°C.
Don't plan on Hippie Island (Virupapur Gadde): its guesthouses were demolished in March 2020, and most stays are closed or have moved. Stay in Hampi Bazaar, Anegundi or Sanapur instead.
Confirm Vittala Temple hours and the foreigner ticket at the counter. Sources disagree: 6 am to 6 pm or 8:30 am to 5:30 pm, and ₹500 or ₹600.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
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