Amber Fort and the hill forts
Go early to Amber Fort, about 11 km north of the old city, with two more hill forts, Jaigarh and Nahargarh, close by. Then stop at Jal Mahal, the palace in the lake, for a photo from the shore.
If you want one first city in Rajasthan, make it this one: big forts, busy bazaars (street markets) and more nightlife than most places we cover. It suits first-timers who want something to see every day. It's popular and can feel crowded, and you will be sold to, so skip it if that wears you down.
Go in the coloured months. The black ones are best avoided.
Go early to Amber Fort, about 11 km north of the old city, with two more hill forts, Jaigarh and Nahargarh, close by. Then stop at Jal Mahal, the palace in the lake, for a photo from the shore.
All three sit close together in the old walled city, so do them on foot in a day. Jantar Mantar is an open-air observatory of giant stone instruments, listed by Rajasthan Tourism as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Shop the bazaars, or street markets, of the Pink City, the old walled quarter, then end on a rooftop. One source puts bars and clubs on Tonk Road, MI Road and Malviya Nagar, so check a venue is still open.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Albert Hall Museum, the small Anokhi Museum of block-printed textiles and Galtaji, a temple site in the hills, make a quieter third day. Finish with sunset from Nahargarh fort.
One source lists Chokhi Dhani, a village-style restaurant and entertainment venue about 18 km out. It also names the sound and light show at Amber and a film at Rajmandir Cinema.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Jaipur is the best place to start eating Rajasthani food, which is built for the desert: lots of dried beans, ghee and red chilli. Go from a kachori breakfast to a fiery mutton dinner in a single day.
Baked wheat balls with lentils and sweet crushed wheat, Rajasthan's signature plate. Have it at lunch, then rest.
Vegetarian
Gram flour dumplings in a yogurt curry, a dish that grew up where vegetables were scarce.
Vegetarian
A honeycomb disc of fried batter soaked in syrup, sold mainly around festivals. Buy it from an old sweet shop.
Vegetarian
Desert berries and beans cooked with chilli and mustard oil, a staple of the Rajasthani thali, a set plate.
Vegetarian
Fiery red mutton curry made with Mathania chillies. It isn't subtle, so order rice or bread to go with it.
Flaky fried pastry stuffed with spiced onion, Jaipur's breakfast. Have it hot from the shop near the station.
Vegetarian
Laal maas and clay pot cooking, for your one big meat dinner.
Mid-rangeRajasthani thali, sweets and ghewar in the old city, a handy stop while you shop.
Mid-range, vegetarianPyaaz kachori for breakfast, at the place everyone names first.
Cheap eats, vegetarianLaal maas and keema baati when you're ready for proper heat.
Mid-range










Take the 12015 Shatabdi, a fast day train, from Delhi: it leaves about 06:10 and arrives about 10:35, but check times on IRCTC when you book. Trains also link Agra, Mumbai, Jodhpur, Udaipur and Ahmedabad. The airport (Sanganer, JAI) has domestic flights and a few to Dubai, Muscat, Singapore and Bangkok, though routes change.
Bani Park, MI Road and Civil Lines One source points to mid-range hotels in the newer parts of the city here.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Pink City (the old walled city) Budget stays near the Hawa Mahal, within walking distance of the old-city sights.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Tonk Road and palace hotels Go here for the top-end palace hotels.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Watch for rickshaw add-ons and commission shops, and for a gem resale scam that starts with a friendly invitation to tea. This warning comes from one source.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.



