Jaisalmer Fort
Wander it on foot. This is a living fort, with shops, hotels and homes inside the walls.
2 to 3 daysHow long to stay
Budget to luxuryRough cost
Couples, Friends, Families, SoloWho it suits
RajasthanRajasthan
Is this for you?
This is a golden sandstone fort town at the edge of the Thar desert, and people still live inside the walls. Couples and friends after one night in a desert camp will love it. The Thar runs towards the Pakistan border, so a few permit and border rules matter here. Go between November and February. If reading the rules before you travel sounds like too much, skip it.
When to go
- Jan
- Feb
- Mar
- Apr
- May
- Jun
- Jul
- Aug
- Sep
- Oct
- Nov
- Dec
Go in the coloured months. The black ones are best avoided.
What to do
Jain temples inside the fort
Go in the morning, when the seven Jain temples inside the fort walls are open. Jainism is an Indian faith that stresses non-violence. Check hours at the gate.
Patwon-ki-Haveli and Gadisar Lake
A haveli is a grand old family mansion, and Patwon-ki-Haveli is one to see. Then go to Gadisar Lake for dusk. Both are in the town itself.
Bada Bagh sunset
Bada Bagh is a sunset point just outside the town.
Sam dunes and a desert camp
Plan one night: camel and jeep safaris run at the Sam and Khuri dunes, and camping at Sam is best from October to March. Camps around Sam are 40 to 50 km out, Khuri about 40 km. Read the border and permit notices first.
What to eat
Desert cooking runs on what keeps: dried beans, berries and pulses. Most places near the fort aim at travellers, so pick a Rajasthani dish and skip the pizza.
Ghotua ladoo
A soft sweet ball of gram flour, ghee (clarified butter) and cardamom, sold in Jaisalmer's sweet shops.
Vegetarian
Ker sangri
A tangy dish of ker, a desert berry, and sangri, a desert bean. It tastes of this landscape, so order it at least once.
Vegetarian
Laal maas
A fiery mutton curry in yoghurt and chilli. Ask how hot it is, because it can be very hot.
Pyaaz kachori
A fried pastry with a spicy onion filling, sold cheaply at breakfast stalls around Gandhi Chowk and the bazaars.
Vegetarian
Where to go
Chandan Shree RestaurantJust outside the fort
Pyaaz kachori and ghewar, a honeycomb-like sweet.
Cheap eatsDhanraj Bhatia SweetsNear the fort
Ghotua ladoo and other old Jaisalmer sweets to take away.
Cheap eats, vegetarianSaffronGandhi Chowk, on Hotel Nachana Haveli
Dinner with fort views, and it serves drinks.
Mid-rangeThe TrioGandhi Chowk
A Rajasthani thali with ker sangri and laal maas, and a live band most nights.
Mid-range
Getting there
Take a day train from Jodhpur, about 5h35 to 7h20, or an overnight from Delhi, about 16 hours. Check times on IRCTC, the national booking site. The airport is seasonal: it shut for about six months after late March 2026 and flights return for winter, with Air India announcing a daily Mumbai flight from 25 October 2026.
Where to stay
Desert camps on the Sam road One guide lists tented camps from simple to luxury. Book one night, not more.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Near the fort One guide says a town stay near the fort has the most character, and costs run from budget to mid-range. You're not out in the dunes, though.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Worth knowing
Permit
Foreigners need a permit for parts of Jaisalmer district. Jaisalmer city, Amar Sagar, Ludrava, Kuldhara, Bada Bagh, Akal, Sam, Unda and Khuri are exempt. Elsewhere, ask your hotel or camp, and apply at indianfrro.gov.in or the Su-Swagatam app.
Permit
Confirm with your camp or hotel before going beyond Jaisalmer city. A June 2026 amendment reportedly changes border-district rules and we couldn't read it, so the permit exceptions may have changed.
Safety
Stay on normal tourist roads and never head for the border alone. The UK and Canada advise against all travel within 10 km of it, and it's unmarked in places, so you could enter Pakistan illegally.
3 more to know
Opening
Confirm your flight before you book. The airport closed for about six months after late March 2026, and flights return for winter, with a daily Air India Mumbai flight announced from 25 October 2026.
Safety
By our rough map estimates, not legal figures, Sam is about 45 km from the Pakistan border, Khuri 54 km, the fort 84 km. Longewala (about 13 to 16 km) and unmeasured Tanot aren't in this guide.
Safety
Watch for erratic motorbikes in the narrow lanes, and don't wander into border areas near Pakistan. That's one travel guide's warning, and the same guide calls Jaisalmer very safe.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
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