Khajuraho travel guide

2 daysHow long to stay

Budget to luxuryRough cost

CouplesWho it suits

Madhya PradeshNorth India

Is this for you?

Khajuraho is a small town built around temples famous for their stone carvings, some of them erotic. Couples and art lovers enjoy it most. Families are fine if they're relaxed about the carvings, and if you're not, skip it. Two days is enough.

When to go

Go in the coloured months. The black ones are best avoided.

What to do

Western Group of temples

The main temple complex, reported open daily 6:00 am to 6:00 pm. The foreigner ticket is reported at ₹600, and children under 15 go free.

Eastern and Southern Groups

Smaller groups of temples, generally free. The Eastern Group is mostly Jain (Jainism is an Indian religion that stresses non-violence).

Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.

Evening light show

An evening light and sound show in English. Sources differ on start times and prices, with about ₹500 reported for foreigners, so check on the day.

Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.

Raneh Falls

One source reports this waterfall gorge open 8:00 am to 5:00 pm, at ₹600 for foreigners plus ₹200 per vehicle. Go in or just after the monsoon.

Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.

Panna National Park

One source says Panna National Park and the Ken Gharial Sanctuary (a gharial is a fish-eating crocodile) work in the dry months and close in the monsoon. Check fees and safari times locally.

Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.

What to eat

Khajuraho's cafes feed tourists well enough, but the local meal to look for is a Bundelkhandi thali, a set plate from this part of central India. Food here is pleasant, not a reason to come.

Bundelkhandi thali

A set plate of regional vegetables, dal, kadhi and bread. Ask for it by name rather than settle for a tourist menu.

Vegetarian

Dal panchmel

Five lentils cooked together, an everyday dish on the thali here.

Vegetarian

Mungodi

Small fried lentil dumplings, served with green chutney in Bundelkhand kitchens.

Vegetarian

Where to go

Lala Ji Ki RasoiMatangeshwar temple road

A Bundelkhandi thali, a regional set plate. We found one source, so check it's open.

Cheap eats, vegetarian

Raja CafeOpposite the Western Group of temples

Rooftop seats and a temple view. Go for the view, as reviews on food and price are mixed.

Mid-range

This is a derivative work on available on wikimedia commons with CC4.0 license. The license terms therein apply to this image as well. — Ms Sarah Welch, CC BY-SA 4.0

Dulhadeo (Dulhadev) Temple, Khajuraho, India. — Marcin Białek, CC BY-SA 4.0

Devi Jagadambi Temple in Westen Group of Temples, Khajuraho, India. — Marcin Białek, CC BY-SA 4.0

Chaturbhuja Temple, Khajuraho, India. — Sfu, CC BY-SA 4.0

Lakshmana Temple in Khajuraho — Chetansoni, CC BY-SA 4.0

Vaman Temple, Khajuraho, India. — Sfu, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Jagdambi Temple in Khajuraho is a historic Hindu temple known for its intricate and exquisite architectural design. This temple, dedicat — Rohit Sharma, CC BY-SA 4.0

Kandariya Mahadeva Temple, Khajuraho, India — HnsGlobeTrotter, CC BY-SA 4.0

This is a photo of ASI monument number — Roopam Sadh, CC BY-SA 4.0

Raneh falls are a series of waterfalls on the Ken River, located about 20 kilometers radially northeast of Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh. They i — Ms Sarah Welch, CC0

Getting there

Take the 22470 Vande Bharat from Delhi's Hazrat Nizamuddin at 6:00, via Agra Cantt (7:40) and Jhansi (10:30), arriving 14:20, no service on Mondays. The 22469 returns at 14:50 and reaches Delhi at 23:10. From Orchha, take a taxi to Jhansi and join the 22470 there. Khajuraho has a small airport (HJR) and a station (KURJ).

Where to stay

Airport Road and edge-of-town resorts The upper end, with pools. You'll need transport into town.

Town centre by the Western Group Budget to mid-range, and you can walk to the main temples.

Plan a trip around this