Pune is a calm Marathi city with a student feel, good cafes and some Maratha history. Think of it as a useful stop, not a headline, especially if you're heading to Ajanta and Ellora. Most long-haul visitors arrive in Mumbai first. If this is your first trip and you aren't going that way, skip it.
Go in the coloured months. The black ones are best avoided.
A historic Maratha-era wada, a traditional mansion, in the old city, with a light-and-sound show. We found only one listing for hours and the foreigner ticket, so check on the day.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Go for the displays about Mahatma Gandhi. Check the opening days before you set off.
Spend your evening in this leafy, upscale district of bars, lounges and live music. Bars in Pune were directed to close by 1:30 am.
A popular hike up to a hill fort. We couldn't find opening hours or fees, so ask your hotel.
Pune is a Marathi city that takes its breakfasts seriously. Skip the cafes on your first morning and go for misal in the old city, then bun maska in a cafe that's been there since the 1930s.
A crisp spiced spiral snack, tangy and sweet. Buy a box to take home. People here do it by the kilo.
Vegetarian
A soft bun with lots of butter, for dipping in Irani chai, the milky tea of Pune's old Persian cafes.
Vegetarian
A plate of more than a dozen local dishes, often with shrikhand, a sweet strained yoghurt, and puri, fried bread.
Vegetarian
A thick milkshake topped with ice cream, in flavours like mango. Have one on a hot afternoon.
Vegetarian
A spicy sprouted bean curry topped with crunchy fried bits and eaten with bread. It's breakfast, and it's hot.
Vegetarian
Misal for breakfast, in an old city room that's had a makeover.
Cheap eats, vegetarianBun maska, keema (minced meat) and Irani chai in an old Persian cafe.
Cheap eatsBakarwadi by the box. The branch gets crowded, so be ready to push politely.
Cheap eats, vegetarianShrewsbury biscuits and mawa cake. They can sell out by late afternoon.
Cheap eatsThe Maharashtrian thali, with more than 15 dishes.
Mid-range, vegetarian
Take the Deccan Queen, a daytime express, from Mumbai CSMT at 17:10 to Pune at 20:25. Going back it leaves at 07:15 and arrives at 10:25, about 3 hours 10 minutes. Pune Airport is about 6 km from Koregaon Park, with few international flights. We couldn't confirm a direct train to Chhatrapati Sambhajinagar, the base for Ajanta and Ellora.
Kalyani Nagar One guide lists boutique hotels and serviced apartments here, close to the Aga Khan Palace, which suits a longer stay.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Koregaon Park One guide says this is leafy and upscale, with cafes and bars on the doorstep, so stay here for your evenings. It's the pricey option.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Viman Nagar One guide lists budget and mid-range hotels near the airport. Handy for a flight, and that's about it.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
In Maharashtra the minimum age is 25 for spirits (a permit rule) and 21 for beer. The excise manual we read is undated, so expect to be asked for ID.
Check locally before planning a late night. Pune police directed bars and permit rooms to close by 1:30 am, and we couldn't confirm that's still the current rule.
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