Ram Jhula and Swargashram
Walk across Ram Jhula, a long suspension footbridge over the Ganges, into Swargashram, the riverside area of ashrams, retreats for yoga and prayer. Go in the evening for the aarti, when lamps are offered to the river.
3 daysHow long to stay
Budget to luxuryRough cost
Couples, Families, Friends, SoloWho it suits
Uttarakhandthe Himalaya
Is this for you?
This is the easiest first step into the Himalayan foothills: yoga, riverside walks and rafting, with no long mountain journey. It works for every kind of group, and best of all if you're solo. The town is vegetarian and you can't buy alcohol, so skip it if you want a big night out. If rafting is the point, skip the monsoon too.
When to go
- Jan
- Feb
- Mar
- Apr
- May
- Jun
- Jul
- Aug
- Sep
- Oct
- Nov
- Dec
Go in the coloured months. The black ones are best avoided.
What to do
White-water rafting
Run rapids of different strengths from Shivpuri, an adventure camp area upriver. Rafting stops in the monsoon, roughly July to mid or late September, but reports of the dates differ, so ask your operator.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Laxman Jhula cafes
Laxman Jhula is another footbridge, with cafes and guesthouses all around it. Give it a slow afternoon.
Yoga and Ayurveda
Drop in on a yoga class, or try Ayurveda, the traditional Indian system of herbal medicine and massage. Pick a well-reviewed teacher, and read the safety notice first.
Tapovan
North of the footbridges you get the cheapest stays in town. The feel is young and backpacker.
What to eat
Inside town limits Rishikesh is vegetarian and sells no alcohol, and egg sales are restricted too. Skip the long cafe menus once in a while and ask for Garhwali cooking, the hill food of this region.
Chainsoo
Roasted black lentils cooked into a dark, nutty curry, a winter staple in the hills. Eat it with rice or roti, a plain flatbread.
Vegetarian
Jhangora ki kheer
A sweet pudding of barnyard millet cooked in milk with cardamom. Order it to finish a Garhwali meal.
Vegetarian
Kafuli
A thick green curry of mountain spinach and fenugreek. Have it with rice wherever a menu lists Garhwali food.
Vegetarian
Mandua ki roti
Flatbread made from finger millet, darker and heartier than wheat. It comes with Garhwali meals rather than on tourist thalis.
Vegetarian
Where to go
ChotiwalaSwarg Ashram, near Ram Jhula
A big vegetarian thali, a set plate, at the town's long-time pilgrim favourite.
Cheap eats, vegetarianLittle Buddha CafeLaxman Jhula
River views from a treehouse-style terrace. Go for the setting, and expect slow service.
Mid-rangeRamana's Organic CafeTapovan side of Laxman Jhula
A light vegetarian lunch between yoga classes, in cafe style.
Cheap eats
Getting there
Go by road from Delhi: 240 to 250 km, usually 4 to 6 hours. Or take a train to Haridwar and finish by taxi. If you're flying, Dehradun airport is the usual choice. Don't count on the Delhi to Dehradun Vande Bharat train, because it doesn't stop at Yog Nagari Rishikesh station.
Where to stay
Laxman Jhula and Ram Jhula Good if you want to walk everywhere, with cafes and guesthouses beside the footbridges.
Swargashram The quieter choice, if you want to be close to the ashrams and the river steps.
Tapovan The cheapest area, so go here if you're on a budget and happy in a backpacker crowd.
Worth knowing
Safety
Pick well-reviewed yoga centres, ashrams and retreats, tell someone where you're going, and avoid isolated spots alone, especially after dark. Canada advises particular care at these places.
Opening
Confirm dates with your operator before you book. Rafting stops in the monsoon, roughly July to mid or late September, but reports differ and we found no official notice.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Rules
Don't expect meat, fish, eggs or alcohol in this vegetarian town: none of it is available. We found no official text, but two sources agree.
