Laitumkhrah cafes
A quieter district near the centre with cafes. Sleep and eat here if you want it calmer than the market area.
1 to 2 daysHow long to stay
Budget to luxuryRough cost
Couples, Friends, Solo, FamiliesWho it suits
MeghalayaNortheast India
Is this for you?
Shillong is the hill capital of Meghalaya, cooler than the plains, and most people use it as a base for Sohra and Dawki. We haven't checked its sights yet, so treat it as a comfortable place to sleep and find a shared taxi. If you're looking for a reason to come on its own, skip it.
When to go
- Jan
- Feb
- Mar
- Apr
- May
- Jun
- Jul
- Aug
- Sep
- Oct
- Nov
- Dec
Go in the coloured months. The black ones are best avoided.
What to do
Police Bazar
The central market and transport hub, busy and noisy. Government buses and shared taxis leave from here. Watch your bag in the market.
Day trips and onward travel
Sohra is about 65 km away, 2 to 2.5 hours by road, and Dawki about 80 to 82 km, normally 2.5 to 3 hours. Both are long for a day trip, so many people sleep near them instead.
What to eat
Shillong loves pork, smoke and fermented flavours, and Khasi food is the reason to linger a day. Vegetarians will find this harder than almost anywhere in India, so ask at every stop.
Doh khlieh
A rich salad of boiled pork head with onion, chilli and ginger. A cool side to go with jadoh.
Dohneiiong
Pork in a black sesame gravy. Have it with rice, best in a Khasi thali, or set plate.
Jadoh
Red rice cooked with pork, lard and blood, the Khasi plate. Have it at a market stall at lunch, with wild greens on the side.
Tungrymbai
Fermented soybeans cooked into a strong, savoury side, usually with pork. Have it with rice.
Tungtap
A pungent chutney of fermented fish. A small spoon on your rice is all you need.
Where to go
Bei Synshar's stallIewduh market
Jadoh with a spread of wild greens and chutneys. One food writer's pick, so ask around.
Cheap eatsRynsanLaitumkhrah
Putharo, rice cakes, with smoked pork. A newer take on local food. Check first.
Mid-rangeThat Momo GuyRynjah
The Big Momo, an oversized pork dumpling. Check before you go.
Cheap eatsTrattoriaPolice Bazar
No-frills Khasi thalis with jadoh and dohneiiong. Locals fill it, so go early.
Cheap eats
Getting there
Meghalaya has no railway, so you arrive by road. From Guwahati station, about 104 km, or the airport, 120 to 128 km, shared taxis called Sumos or private taxis take about 2 hours and 3 to 3.5 hours. Government buses take about 3 hours, about 06:00 to 17:00, and with shared taxis use Police Bazar. Private buses use Polo Grounds.
Where to stay
Laitumkhrah A quieter cafe district near the centre, and the easier choice for most people. Buses and shared taxis leave from Police Bazar, not here.
Police Bazar Central and close to buses and shared taxis, with plenty of hotels. It's noisy, so watch for petty theft in the market.
Worth knowing
Safety
The UK government warns of sudden flare-ups on inter-state borders including Assam and Meghalaya, skirmishes on the India-Bangladesh border, and protests and blockades that can disrupt highways. Check with local people before travelling near a border. The US lists the Northeastern States at Level 3, reconsider travel, and we could not confirm whether that includes Meghalaya.
Safety
Use meghalayatourism.in's official listings or a stay you've confirmed: one source says the state warns of fake hotel sites. Allow 3 to 3.5 hours from Guwahati airport and carry your passport.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Rules
No Protected Area Permit is listed for Meghalaya under India's 2025 Order. Keep your passport with you; Dawki sits on the Bangladesh border, so follow local security instructions. If in doubt, the state tourism helpline is 1800 599 2026.
