North Cliff walk
Walk the path along the only coastal cliffs in south Kerala, lined with cafes and shops. Keep well back from the edge, especially in or after rain.
3 to 4 daysHow long to stay
Budget to mid-rangeRough cost
Couples, Friends, Solo, FamiliesWho it suits
KeralaSouth India
Is this for you?
Come for beach days with an easy social feel, a cliff path of cafes and yoga. It's calmer than Goa, and it suits solo travellers, couples and friends. The sea can be dangerous, the cliff edge can be unstable, and a few Hindu sites nearby may not admit non-Hindus. If you want safe swimming, skip it. Take it slowly.
When to go
- Jan
- Feb
- Mar
- Apr
- May
- Jun
- Jul
- Aug
- Sep
- Oct
- Nov
- Dec
Go in the coloured months. The black ones are best avoided.
What to do
Yoga
Start with a morning class. One source covers the yoga scene, and Canada advises particular care at yoga centres, ashrams and retreats, so choose a well-reviewed centre with a clear class schedule.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Papanasam beach
The beach below the cliffs, and the waves are strong. A British tourist drowned while surfing here in April 2024, so don't treat it as safe for swimming.
Black Beach and Odayam
One source points you to these quieter beaches along the coast, good for a calmer day away from the main cliff path.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
Sivagiri
A Hindu pilgrimage site with a monastery, the Sivagiri Mutt. Whether non-Hindus can go inside is up to the people in charge, so go with no expectations and respect what they tell you.
What to eat
The cliff restaurants all serve a similar mix of seafood, pizza and smoothie bowls, and quality varies. The fish is the point, and the small Kerala places in town below the cliff cost less.
Grilled catch of the day
Pick your fish or prawns from the ice at a cliff restaurant and have them grilled. Agree the price before they cook it.
Kerala fish curry
Fish in a tangy curry of tamarind, coconut and spices, eaten with rice. Have it in town at lunch.
Prawn moilee
Prawns in a mild coconut milk curry, found at the better cliff restaurants.
Sadya
A vegetarian feast served on a banana leaf at festivals. Ask your host if one is on while you're here.
Vegetarian
Where to go
AbbaNorth Cliff
A seafood sizzler or a bakery breakfast, with a bit of everything on the menu.
Mid-rangeChimney Family RestaurantVarkala town
Seer fish curry away from cliff prices.
Cheap eatsDarjeeling CafeNorth Cliff
A relaxed sunset spot, and better for Thai than Kerala food.
Mid-rangeTrattoriasNorth Cliff
Seafood and sea views.
Mid-range
Getting there
From Ernakulam near Kochi, take a regular train, about 3 hours. The Vande Bharat (a fast modern chair-car train) doesn't appear to stop at Varkala, so don't book it. Check train times on the Indian Railways site when you book.
Where to stay
North Cliff The busiest stretch, with the most cafes, so friends and solo travellers do well here. Don't expect quiet.
Odayam A quieter beach area and a good fit for couples. You're away from the main strip.
South Cliff Calmer than the north, and still close to the cliff path, if you'd pay a little more for less noise.
Worth knowing
Rules
Many Hindu temples in Kerala do not admit non-Hindus, and a state rule is described as a blanket bar. In January 2026 the Kerala High Court asked the state to reconsider that rule but did not strike it down. Plan to see temples from outside only. Do not plan to go inside the Guruvayur or Padmanabhaswamy temples, which are the best known. Whether you are turned away is the temple's decision, and we do not suggest any declaration of faith to get in.
Safety
Keep well back from cliff edges, especially in or after rain, and follow any barriers or signs. Part of the Papanasam cliff collapsed after heavy rain, reported on 5 July 2026.
Safety
Don't treat the beach as safe: go in only where it's calm, and stay at knee depth. One source reports strong waves, and a British tourist drowned while surfing at Papanasam in April 2024.
Sources differ on this, or we have only one, so check locally.
2 more to know
Safety
Avoid isolated areas, including beaches, when alone at any time of day: the UK reports a risk of sexual assault in tourist areas. Choose well-reviewed yoga centres and tell someone your plans.
Rules
Plan to see Hindu temples, including the Janardhana Swami Temple, from outside. Non-Hindus may be turned away in Kerala, so respect the staff's decision.
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